EXPREST - A high performance protein fibre and expression system for sustainable textiles

This UK-Netherlands collaboration combines Solena's fibre design capability and application insight with BioscienZ's industrial biotech expertise, building a practical route from laboratory development to scalable manufacturing.

Solena Materials Limited and BioscienZ are developing EXPREST, a new bio-based textile material and production system designed to make clothing and technical fabrics more sustainable without compromising performance.

This project will develop a scalable manufacturing route for high-performance protein fibres made through fermentation. Today, most textiles rely on oil-based synthetics or resource-intensive natural fibres, both of which carry significant environmental impacts. Europe's textile consumption is one of the largest contributors to environmental pressure, increasing demand for lower-impact materials that can scale.

The EXPREST project aims to tackle a key barrier that has held back fermented protein fibres: cost. Existing approaches typically require sterile production methods and complex processing, which makes manufacturing expensive and difficult to scale. EXPREST will instead use an advanced fungal production system that can operate under simplified, non-sterile conditions. This reduces energy use and processing complexity and supports a more efficient route to industrial production.

The project will optimise the fibre design and production process, improve downstream purification and validate performance for textile applications. It will also generate independent evidence on environmental impact and production economics and complete non-sensitive testing needed to prepare the material for future regulatory requirements.

The system will be developed for civil textile markets, with an initial focus on premium apparel where brands and consumers are actively seeking credible, lower-impact materials. Post-project, Solena and BioscienZ plan to move into customer pilots and early commercial supply, supporting adoption by textile...